IMS writes:
‘It
was a fine Autumn morning; the early sun shone serenely on embrowned groves and
still green fields: I looked up and surveyed the front of the mansion.
Battlements round the top gave it a picturesque look.’
'Farther
off were hills: not so lofty as those round Lowood, nor so craggy, but yet
quiet and lonely hills enough.’
The
Monday excursion for Brontë Society members was to Haddon Hall, a building
built of gritstone and limestone, on the banks of the River Wye in Derbyshire -
one of the seats of the Duke of Rutland. The hall has been the setting for many
films - one of the earliest based there was the 1924 film starring Mary
Pickford - Dorothy Vernon of Haddon Hall. This film tells the romantic story of how
Dorothy eloped with John Manners in 1563. The Manners family still hold the
seat today. Haddon has played cameo roles in Pride and Prejudice and The Other Boleyn
Girl but it was the fact that the hall has
been used for three Jane Eyre productions that occasioned a coach from Haworth to
travel from motorway to motorway, pass the leaning steeple in Chesterfield and
to pull into the car park just outside the town of Bakewell - famous for its
puddings and tarts.
We
were met by one of the guides who welcomed us to the Hall and who then led us
through the narrow gate house and, after warning us of the very uneven ground
all around, directed us towards the chapel.
‘We
entered the quiet and humble temple’. All was still: The strangers had slipped
in before us, they viewed the old time-stained marble tomb.’
Our
very knowledgeable guide explained that film directors Fukunaga and Zefferelli
and the BBC production which starred the suave Toby Stephens and the pulchritudinous Ruth
Wilson had all used the inside of the chapel which, with a Norman pillar and font
and Norman lancet windows, has some of the earliest masonry of the Hall. A
marble copy effigy of the eighth Duke who died at the age of nine lies in the
chapel and all around the walls are fresco-seccos from the early fifteenth
century. Similarly, we were told, they had all used the fourteenth century
kitchen which houses the only Tudor dresser in the world. Scorch marks on the
timber partition walls show where candles and rushes were used for lighting.
‘The
steps and banisters were of oak; the staircase window was high and latticed;
both it and the long gallery looked as if they belonged to a church rather than
a house.’
‘Traversing
the long and matted gallery I descended the slippery steps of oak.’
We
were taken into the Long Gallery which would have been used for exercise when
the weather outside was inclement and the guide explained that the diamond
shaped panes in the windows are set at different angles to maximise the use of
the daylight. It
was interesting to hear that when filming was taking place it was very cold in
the Long Gallery- it being more or less impossible to heat- and the actors had
to suck ice cubes so that their breath would not be seen on film.
‘It
was burnt down just about harvest time. A dreadful calamity. The fire broke out
at dead of night, and before the engines arrived from Millcote the building was
one mass of flame. It was a terrible spectacle.’
Our
guide recalled that when the BBC decided to use pyrotechnics, smoke machines,
and lighted pokers in the windows to make the fire at Thornfield really
realistic the local fire brigade - who had happily been warned in advance-
received over one hundred calls.
‘And
then they called to him that she was on the roof; where she was standing,
waving her arms, above the battlements, and shouting.’
‘We
saw him approach her; and then she yelled and gave a spring and the next minute
she lay smashed on the pavement.’
We
were taken outside and the part of the roof from where the stunt person playing
Bertha jumped was pointed out to us. Apparently scaffolding had had to be
erected and the person jumped the thirty feet on to an airbag. It looked as if
it would have been quite an ordeal to jump from those battlements but at ten
pounds a foot maybe it was worth it - however not for me!
‘No
nook in the grounds more sheltered and more Eden-like; it was full of trees, it
bloomed with flowers:’
We
wandered in the beautiful gardens and looked down on the footbridge - seen in all
the films- where Sir John Manners was waiting to whisk Dorothy away from the
Hall all those years ago and we saw the meadow at the side of the river where
in the BBC production Mr Rochester and Jane picnic.
It
was a most enjoyable day spent at Haddon - I am sure I will not be the only one
watching the DVD of the latest film version of Jane Eyre once again and saying “I’ve
been there!”